The Big Island of Hawaii
Back to paradise we went; heart-bound to the place that first ignited our wanderlust: Hawaii. Visiting Volcanoes National Park, hiking the lava flows, driving to the summit of Mauna Kea, relaxing at Hapuna Beach, visiting Akaka Falls and Rainbow Falls, hiking the Pololū Trail, driving to Papakōlea Green Sands Beach, swimming with dolphins and whale watching – we wanted to capture it all. And so we did.
Pololū Valley
The first day was completely lost to travel, but on my 35th birthday we awoke for our first full day on the Big Island. The previous night we hunted for a good breakfast spot and decided upon Daylight Mind Coffee Company in Kona. This turned out to be an incredible restaurant that we would go back to several more times - violating our strict "no-repeat" policy. Their coffee was the best on the island by leaps and bounds. They roast the beans themselves and produce a delicate light roast that lets the Kona beans shine through. Most "Kona Coffee" as you'll see plastered about the island is a dirty dark roast that tastes burnt and requires dousing with cream and sugar. If you appreciate good coffee, make a stop at Daylight Mind and delight yourself with their cold-brew.
After fueling up, we set out to drive to the northern tip to hike along the Pololū Trail. The drive there was gorgeous - moving through lush tropical climate, to stark lava flow desert, to coastal pine trees, and finally back into the dense tropics as we neared Pololū.
Once we arrived at the Pololū trailhead, we quickly grabbed some water and fresh fruit we got to-go from Daylight Mind and set out on the trail. It was a relatively easy 15 minute hike down to the beach. The way down offers pockets of stunning views.
The beach was very different from what we expected. The shoreline is covered in large rocks rubbed smooth from the waves. Behind the shore is a pine tree forest. Scattered throughout the shaded side are swings that we imagined were left behind by some indigenous hippies who called this state park their home in the 60's. The trail winds through the backside of the beach leading to another ridgeline you can cross, but we decided to spend time in the pine forest playing on the hippie rope swings and balance beams.
After a few hours in the park, we started the drive back but not before stopping at a small smoothie trailer just a little beyond the trailhead. The place was called *Fresh Off the Grid* and they made incredible juices, teas and smoothies from fresh local fruits - a great way to cool the throat after a day of running through the forest.
Hapena Beach
On the way south from Pololuū trail, we stopped off at Hapena Beach. We wanted to be near our airbnb by sunset, so we limited ourselves to two hours there. This state park is known as one of the best beaches in the world with killer waves and whale watching. Though we didn't see any whales, we did enjoy body surfing in the huge crashing waves and soaking in the late afternoon sun.
We raced against time to try and catch sunset somewhere between Kona and our airbnb near Captain Cook and wound up at Kona Brewing Company. The atmosphere was relaxed and the food was pretty decent. They had some special brews on draft, but nothing compared to what you would get on the mainland. Nevertheless, we enjoyed a slightly obscured sunset while we listened to the lowkey music and enjoyed the friendly service.
That night we settled into our airbnb which was located on an organic farm and shared space with two other renters. Our cohorts were from Brazil and Los Angeles and we shared some pleasant conversation before turning in for the night.
Green Sands Beach
The next morning we awoke to find fresh picked apple-bananas and oranges stacked in bowls for us in the kitchen. Ducks waddled about the farm, quacking after the caretakers to be fed. After a relaxing slow wake-up staring out into the western ocean, we set out for breakfast at the renowned Coffee Shack. It was a quick five minute drive from our airbnb, so all the better we thought. Our expectations were crushed when the *Coffee* Shack had - what we realized to be - the worst coffee on the island. The food and coffee traded their substance for the spectacular view. I would say that if you haven't ventured down to this part of the island, it's a great spot to stop in for a pastry and check out the view. If you're going there because they have *coffee* in the name, you'll be sorely disappointed.
With that out of the way and Meaghan making me promise her that I wouldn't tell the multitude of people that told us to go to the Coffee Shack that it was an assault upon our taste buds, we headed south for the Green Sands Beach.
The drive there was short and once again changed through several different types of landscapes. Eventually, as we neared the narrow lane that takes you the rest of the way there, the lava flows and jungle palms gave way for grassy plains with rolling hills peppered with giant wind turbines.
Once you near the main trail that leads to the Green Sands Beach, you have a few different options. If you want, you can park your car and hop on a round-trip shuttle for $15 or $20 per person. These shuttles are run by locals and not through some company - it is somewhat chaotic and you may find yourself waiting a while for a return truck as they fill up quick. Your next option is to hike the 45 minute walk there. I would say this would be great, but there is literally no shade whatsoever, so be prepared with hats and sunscreen. Your final (and most fun) option is to drive a four-wheel drive, high clearance vehicle out there. This is why we highly recommend renting a Jeep Wrangler or the like while on the Big Island.
The shaky, uneven drive there takes about 20 minutes and is filled with fun little panic moments and near topples, but the drive to Green Sands Beach was one of our top highlights from visiting the Big Island.
Once you arrive, there is a small parking area at the top of the beach where you'll see a few other cars. We hoped out and immediately explored the entire upper area before hiking down the steep embankment of the hillside. The sweeping grassy hills are a sight to behold. There is a picturesque bench that faces the southern tip of the island that is a perfect spot to ponder your existence and question your nine-to-five.
After exploring the upper area, we ventured down to the water. Despite Green Sands being a bay, the waves are still pretty intense and a lot of fun. You can sit along the rocks and watch as swimmers taunt the waves. We spent an hour or so swimming before we decided to head back.
There are numerous paths you can take to and from the beach. We experimented a bit with our route, but we mostly recommend following the path that you see locals driving.
A short way up the main road is Ka Lae Coffee. Stop here for some cold brew, homemade pastries, and a walk through the orchid garden. We also picked up some macadamia nuts and homemade fresh fruit smoothies.
Swimming with Dolphins
The next day, we woke up early to drive to the dock in Kona and boarded a Sunlight On Water dolphin tour. We had heard from our airbnb hosts that this was the best company on the island. We were not disappointed. We searched for dolphins about an hour's drive north along the coast. Once we found a pod, we quickly scrambled to put on our goggles and drop in. The warm water and gentle waves gave us good visibility as a pod of 20-30 dolphins swam around and underneath us. At one point, a pair of dolphins came to within arms reach of Meaghan and me. It was truly exciting.
The highlight of the tour, however, was when a baby whale danced by our boat. We spotted the whale and the boat immediate cut its engines. For the next 15 minutes, we watched as the mother and baby whale made their way coming to within 20 feet or so of our boat. The baby whale crested every 30 seconds, while the mother only came up for air once or twice. This was an incredible experience that is difficult to put into words. We were both overcome with joy and excitement.
This was the end of our stay on this part of the island. After we returned from snorkeling with dolphins and whale watching, we grabbed a quick bite in Kona before heading to the other side of the island near Hilo.
Hiking Hawaii Lava Flows
We were fortunate enough to find a beautiful airbnb near the Lava Flows of Volcanoes National Park. We ended up going at the perfect time of day as we set out around sunset and reached the lava flows as it became dark.
You'll park near a protected entrance and are then shuttled in to another area. Along the way, you'll see numerous houses where adventurous people have laid claim and called home. There are many airbnb's along here for those looking to get a unique experience of sleeping in a lava field. At the main camp, you can rent bikes or simply pay the entrance fee and walk to the start of the national park on foot. The fee will get you some bottles of water and flashlights. I highly recommend you check that your flashlight is working before setting out, as mine did not. I ended up using my phone's flashlight for most of the walk back.
Protip: bring a headlamp if you want to hike the lava flows at night
The hike to the lava flows takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. It's an alien, beautiful, one-of-a-kind hike like nothing we've ever done before. You cut your own path as you make your way to the base of the mountain where the lava flows are active. Up and down you will trek across jagged, sharp, brittle volcanic rock. I highly recommend wearing hiking shoes or good sneakers – leave the flip flops behind for this trip.
By the time we reached the lava flows, it was fully dark and you could truly see the intense contrast as the molten lava flowed out of the mountain.
Watch where you step as you get closer and closer to the flowing lava as the last couple hundred feet start to get quite hot. You'll often see bright red flowing in the crevices beneath your feet. Though it may feel too hot for comfort, it is quite safe.
'Akaka and Rainbow Falls
The following day, we set out to explore some of The Big Island's best waterfalls. Rainbow falls is right within Hilo and is not deserving of much time. There is very limited parking and the waterfall is located right off the main parking lot. It's literally at 20 foot walk from your car to the main lookout area. This waterfall is over crowded and has no hiking paths to speak of.
A little further north is 'Akaka state park and waterfall. This area provides a nice scenic walk with beautiful trees and flowers as you approach a very tall, thin waterfall. This area is also congested with lots of tourists, but much more deserving of your time than rainbow falls. You can park outside of the park to avoid paying an additional parking fee, however, there is still a small entrance fee for those entering on foot. The highlight of our time there was stepping off path to explore a giant network of banyan trees.
Along the main road back to Hilo, you will see a sign that says "Scenic Overlook" or "Scenic Drive". We highly recommend taking this route as it offers stunning coastal views and a small beach that you can hike down to which overlooks Onomea Bay.
Turtle Fail
After a quick bite in Hilo, we went with fingers crossed to see sea turtles at Carlsmith Beach Park. We had read that in high season, you can see tons of turtles here. Unfortunately, when we were there in February, there were none to be seen.
We did, however, see two large turtles out in Onomea Bay as we hiked down to the beach. So once again, if you're driving to or from 'Akaka State Park from Hilo, I highly recommend you take the scenic drive which takes you right by the bay.
Sweet Cane Cafe
One of the major food highlights for us, aside from Daylight Mind over in Kona, was the Sweet Cane Cafe in Hilo. Known for their cane juice and fresh food, this vegetarian restaurant will make you want to move to Hawaii. They feature almost all of their foods sourced from local farms, many of which use the Korean Natural Farming method. I first heard about this from the documentary *In Search of Balance* which shows the incredible benefits of this technique of farming. You can taste the difference in the food it produces!
Mauna Kea
With tons of time still left in the day, we decided to drive back to the center of the island and visit the summit of Mauna Kea. Bring your warmest clothes, as when we reached the top it was below freezing with snow everywhere.
The drive is only an hour or so from Hilo. Once you drive halfway up, to about 9,000 feet, there is a visitor's center that you must stop in to acclimatize. The park rangers will not let you go to the summit unless you've spent some time here to get used to the altitude and, more importantly, are driving a four-wheel drive vehicle. Once again, the Jeep Wrangler came in handy.
As we approached the visitor's center, the ranger gestured to a young German couple that was looking to hitch a ride to the top, as they did not have a four-wheel drive vehicle. We loved the opportunity to help out fellow travelers and also to quiz them on American culture and impressions.
The drive to the top is steep and rocky and quickly goes from nice paved roads, to dirt paths with giant rocks in the road. We stopped at several points along the way to take photos of the alien landscape. By the time we reached the summit, a 'storm' of sorts had blown in which forced the rangers to kick everyone off the mountaintop. We were only able to spend a few moments in the white-out summit before being forced to leave. I can only imagine what this would look like on a clear day.
As we descended the mountain, back to the visitor's center, a pocket of clouds parted and we had a beautiful view of the sunset facing the another nearby mountain peak. The moment was fleeting, however, as shortly after we snapped a few photos and admired the beauty, an angry forest ranger came running after us yelling that we continue our descent down the mountain (despite the perfectly fine conditions at that altitude). Nevertheless, we had a fun journey to Mauna Kea's summit, exchanging stories with our German counterparts and running around like kids photographing the Martian landscape.
As we settled in to our airbnb on our final night on the Big Island, we sat in the turmeric fields and star gazed at a remarkably clear sky.